Contents

Mostly true stories by a gringo who has had an ongoing love affair with the town for 28 years.   Laced throughout with interesting and little-known tidbits of Inca history, as well as views of contemporary and ancient Cusco culture.

1.   Introduction.........................................Cusco, Navel of the World
2.   The Stone Wheel of Kachiqhata........A hair-raising and nearly disasterous quest
3.   El Loro.................................................The Parrot...and the problem
4.   The Balcony........................................Contemplating the Navel
5.   Flaco....................................................The woefully inept drug-dealer
6.   Popcorn Boy........................................Entrepreneural Cusco
7.   Wilfredo...............................................The barman and his very pregnant wife
8.   Happy Hour.........................................Risking a horrible death in Cusco traffic to get there on time
9.   The Professor......................................A physicist rants against new-age crystal-gazers
10. The Wedding........................................Irish-Catholic, held in an ancient cathedral, but hardly orthodox
11. Atlantis.................................................The mysterious Cusco link. By a defrocked Archaeologist
12. Trucking to La Paz with Mad Max.....Brave and crazed blockade-running
13. Christmas in Cusco..............................Only two days to shop, and watch where you step
14. On becoming a Cusco Guru.................Fantasies of free sex and fabulous wealth
15. Paruro...................................................On first eating a guinea-pig in the presence of its parents and siblings
16. El Senor de Los Temblores.................Ecstasy....not the drug
17. Brichera................................................Caveat Suitor
18. The things I lost...................................Embarassing admissions    

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